Your Best Cut According to Face Shape

When it comes to the actual cut, both experts agree there isn’t always one definitive way to go, but instead, there are a few flattering and standard tips to accentuate features, and, as Pollack says, “move the eye away from other points of the face.”

Though, you’re allowed to break the rules. You’re not taking an oath here. It’s all about finding your balance, she says.

1. Oval face shapes can wear almost any style, but according to Papanikolas, the most flattering tend to be: long layers, shoulder-length waves, full fringe, layered bob or a side-swept pixie. Pollack is partial to a strong square bob which brings focus to your sharp jawline.
2. Square face shapes may consider softening the edges around the forehead and strong jawlines, so wavy shags with wispy fringe, soft side-swept bangs, or long layers with fringe work best. If you want something shorter than an asymmetrical fringe, create softer angles, Papanikolas says.
3. Round face shapes works well with a long bob, Pollack says, which draws the eyes down to visually lengthen the face. Papanikolas echos this, saying round faces do well with cuts that elongate the face, like long straight hair, long voluminous waves, shaggy bobs, and swoopy bangs with cropped sides.
4. Heart shapes look best with blunt bangs and wavy layers or a chin-length bob with bangs. Soft angles in the front that start below the face help balance out the longer forehead, Pollack says. The key here, according to Papanikolas, is to keep the bangs narrow so that you can create the illusion of less width at the top.
5. Oblong/Rectangle face shapes take a similar approach to square faces. Soften edges and strong jawlines with layers, volume, and side-swept or feathered fringe. Long layers and angles add movement and texture to the hair.
6. Diamond shapes can show off their high cheekbones with short-cropped hair, or keep it long with face-framing layers. Added bangs that hit around the cheekbone also accentuate this shape.

Working With Texture

Hair texture and type play a big role in finding your ideal style, Pollack says. It’s important to understand what your hair is capable of doing naturally and what you are willing to do to maintain a desired look, she says.

Both texture and volume are important to take into consideration and do help in adding width and height to your hair, but Papanikolas warns could be your “worst enemy” if you’re trying to elongate your face.

For example, if you have a round face and medium texture, you want to avoid round styles that will accentuate your features, Pollack says. Go for styles that keep away from accenting your jawline, and instead turn focus around to the neck and collar bone. While, if you were going for a shorter look, keep the sides short so as not to add to the roundness of cheeks and forehead, she says. “Adding height and fullness on top to move the eyes higher.”

Taking Hair Type Into Account

Fine: Generally thin hair should have the least amount of layering, so keep things blunt and short. “My favorite would be a blunt bob with limited texture and layers to maintain strength in your length,” Pollack says.
Medium: A variation of lengths are possible here, Pollack says. Adding layers or texture is ideal to help with movement and minimal weight removal.
Thick: Styles can vary depending on texture or type of hair. You can get away with tons of layering, as long layers help with weight removal, debulk density, and help with day-to-day styling.

Consider the Upkeep

Finding a style that works with your lifestyle is key. Pollack recommends getting your haircut every 3-4 months. If you’re a client who sees your stylist every 6-8 months, she wouldn’t recommend getting a high maintenance look.

Like a pixie or blunt fringe, both experts note shorter cuts tend to be more high-maintenance and require more love than a long layered haircut. Longer hair and a feathered fringe tend to be more forgiving and can be stretched out, Papanikolas says.

Also, consider what you are willing to do at home to maintain the desired look and style. “What products you might need to achieve your look and how often you are willing to come into the salon to maintain the look,” Pollack says.

Other Considerations:

Styling and maintenance are important, especially if you are doing something against your natural texture, Papanikolas says.

Questions both experts say you should ask yourself include:

• How often are you willing to visit the salon to maintain this desired look?
• What are you willing to do at home in terms of products? Heat style? Wash and go?
• Are you ready to blow-dry and flat iron your hair once you cut it into a bob if you have naturally wavy hair?
• Is the cut still versatile with your natural texture on the days you don’t style it?

Papanikolas says that unless you plan on having to tirelessly style your hair, these are important considerations.